From Hofn we travelled to Djupivogur and then to our last site at Seydisfjordur. Djupivogur is a little seaside town where cruise ships anchor in the fjord. Maggie and Mike organise a cheese and wine evening and it is warm and dry enough to sit outside!
We travel on to Seydisfjordur over a high scenic pass. We had been over it on our first day but it had been foggy and we had no idea how high and steep the pass was!
After the staff of Smyril had changed plans several times we eventually boarded the ferry. Two nights at sea, pass the Shetland Islands, and a farewell buffet before leaving the tour in Denmark 🇩🇰.
Friday, 7 July 2017
The South Coast
The next few days see us travel along the coast staying at Seljalandfoss, Skaftafell and Hofn.
In many ways, this was the most varied and, for me, the best part of Iceland 🇮🇸.
We took a ferry to Heimaey Island, one of the Vestmannaeyjar, a group of islands famous for two events. A volcanic eruption in the 1960s saw the birth of a new island, Sertsey. Then, in 1973, another eruption lead to the evacuation of the only inhabited island, Heimaey. Part of the town and harbour were covered by lava.
A puffin walking round a museum in Heimaey.
At Seljalandfoss we were able to walk behind a huge waterfall.
Skaftafell is the visitor centre for the National Park. The huge glacier, Eyjafljalljokull, covers the mountains and creep down the valleys to the sea.
Lagoons form at the end of the glacier and icebergs break off and float in the lagoons, some making it to the beach.
Some areas of the coast are huge deserts of gravel from old volcanic eruptions.
At Hofn we have a lovely meal in a seafood restaurant with Douglas and Jeananne from Inverness. And we get the bikes out!
In many ways, this was the most varied and, for me, the best part of Iceland 🇮🇸.
We took a ferry to Heimaey Island, one of the Vestmannaeyjar, a group of islands famous for two events. A volcanic eruption in the 1960s saw the birth of a new island, Sertsey. Then, in 1973, another eruption lead to the evacuation of the only inhabited island, Heimaey. Part of the town and harbour were covered by lava.
A puffin walking round a museum in Heimaey.
At Seljalandfoss we were able to walk behind a huge waterfall.
Skaftafell is the visitor centre for the National Park. The huge glacier, Eyjafljalljokull, covers the mountains and creep down the valleys to the sea.
Dressed to party!
Icebergs
Lagoons form at the end of the glacier and icebergs break off and float in the lagoons, some making it to the beach.
Some areas of the coast are huge deserts of gravel from old volcanic eruptions.
At Hofn we have a lovely meal in a seafood restaurant with Douglas and Jeananne from Inverness. And we get the bikes out!
Thursday, 6 July 2017
More on Selfoss and Beyond
After a day in Reykjavik we travel a few miles to Hveragerdi where the new visitor centre is built over the rift in the tectonic plates - glass flooring lets you see into the rift. There is also a simulation of an earthquake.
We take a walk round the town but get wet in the rain. After a soup buffet we travel out into the country to see a Viking farmhouse. Unfortunately when we get near we find that you need a 4-wheel drive vehicle to get to it.
On the return to Selfoss we stop to walk round a historic village and go to a swimming pool where we get in for free (67 and over).
On our final day in Selfoss we do a tour of the peninsula, visiting seaside villages and geothermal plants and exhibitions.
We take a walk round the town but get wet in the rain. After a soup buffet we travel out into the country to see a Viking farmhouse. Unfortunately when we get near we find that you need a 4-wheel drive vehicle to get to it.
On the return to Selfoss we stop to walk round a historic village and go to a swimming pool where we get in for free (67 and over).
On our final day in Selfoss we do a tour of the peninsula, visiting seaside villages and geothermal plants and exhibitions.
Monday, 3 July 2017
To Selfoss and beyond
The road to Selfoss takes us to Thingvellir the ancient site for law making and settling of disputes. It is at a huge lake and the rift between the American and Eurasion tectonic plates. Lots of walks and waterfalls.
We travel on to Geyser where there is a geyser, and then on to Gellfoss where there are two waterfalls almost at right angles. Very spectacular!
We travel in to Selfoss to the campsite.
On Monday we are taken to Reykjavik by coach. The guide is quite amusing on the bus but less informative when showing us round the old centre.
Eventually left to our own devices we head to a recommended restaurant and have a seafood buffet. Very good. We spend the afternoon going to the cathedral, the museum and a few shops. I resist the temptation to buy a handmade, salmon skin belt at about £150.
We travel on to Geyser where there is a geyser, and then on to Gellfoss where there are two waterfalls almost at right angles. Very spectacular!
We travel in to Selfoss to the campsite.
On Monday we are taken to Reykjavik by coach. The guide is quite amusing on the bus but less informative when showing us round the old centre.
Eventually left to our own devices we head to a recommended restaurant and have a seafood buffet. Very good. We spend the afternoon going to the cathedral, the museum and a few shops. I resist the temptation to buy a handmade, salmon skin belt at about £150.
The lake at Thingvellir
And a waterfall
Monday, 26 June 2017
Borgdanes and onwards
We head south to Borgdanes, stopping briefly to see another waterfall and to check that Margaret is OK - stopped at the side of the road. She is!
We park up in Borgdanes and go to a restaurant for a drink, but decide to have fish soup for lunch. It arrives cold with raw fish. We complain and it gets sorted! It is good, and the bread is good too.
We visit the excellent Saga museum next door and wander to the library and museum before going to the campsite. Our pitch looks onto the fjord where a family of Shelducks with 24ish ducklings provides the entertainment.
The next day we drive to a hotel in Husafell where we join a few others on an adventure. We travel by bus up a gravel road to a glacier. We then board a huge, ex-NATO transporter and travel on the glacier up to a cave dug into the ice. We are given crampons to walk into the tunnel which takes a circular route. There are a couple of chapels. One is in compacted snow and has poor acoustics, and the other is in ice and has wonderful acoustics. The tunnel also crosses a huge crevasse in the glacier.
A fabulous experience.
Return to the site and have a meeting with cake and hot chocolate.
We park up in Borgdanes and go to a restaurant for a drink, but decide to have fish soup for lunch. It arrives cold with raw fish. We complain and it gets sorted! It is good, and the bread is good too.
We visit the excellent Saga museum next door and wander to the library and museum before going to the campsite. Our pitch looks onto the fjord where a family of Shelducks with 24ish ducklings provides the entertainment.
The next day we drive to a hotel in Husafell where we join a few others on an adventure. We travel by bus up a gravel road to a glacier. We then board a huge, ex-NATO transporter and travel on the glacier up to a cave dug into the ice. We are given crampons to walk into the tunnel which takes a circular route. There are a couple of chapels. One is in compacted snow and has poor acoustics, and the other is in ice and has wonderful acoustics. The tunnel also crosses a huge crevasse in the glacier.
A fabulous experience.
Return to the site and have a meeting with cake and hot chocolate.
Friday, 23 June 2017
A blur of days
From Hrafnagil (correct sp) we visited an unusual Russian style church before heading north and west via Akureyri. A lovely drive over the mountains and through 4 tunnels to Siglufordur where there is a very interesting Herring Museum and a fish and chip shop that also sells wet fish. We buy some Chard in a mango and curry sauce for tea.
When we reach Saudarkrokur the tannery has just closed - no new belt made by an artisan for me.
We reach the campsite at Blonduos and have a walk into town.
The following day we travel to Stykkisholmur. There are 3 suggested routes; 2 involve gravel roads which the site owner suggests are not in good condition, and not suitable for motorhomes.
We have a different plan - to go round a peninsula on a different gravel road and then join an 'official' route. We set off early to try this. It enables us to see seals and Eider Ducks with chicks, and then enjoy a lovely fish soup and rhubarb cake at a well known restaurant, before visiting a dinosaur rock formation and joining the official route again.
We stop a couple of times before the campsite to see an old bridge and 2 even older volcanic craters.
The next day we go to Grundarfjordur where a guided tour of the town (800 residents) has been arranged. It is led by a fisherman (1st mate on a trawler) who has just brought a new trawler from Turkey. His tour and talk is very interesting!
We travel on round the peninsula and then try to turn round to go back to see a maritime garden, but get stuck in gravel! Try as I might we cannot get out. Contact the breakdown company who tell me they do not cover Iceland (when I was specifically told they did !). Had to contact Mike and Maggie and they managed to contact a tourist information centre, who contacted breakdown service to tow us out. 1500 ISK!!!
Returned to campsite.
When we reach Saudarkrokur the tannery has just closed - no new belt made by an artisan for me.
We reach the campsite at Blonduos and have a walk into town.
The following day we travel to Stykkisholmur. There are 3 suggested routes; 2 involve gravel roads which the site owner suggests are not in good condition, and not suitable for motorhomes.
We have a different plan - to go round a peninsula on a different gravel road and then join an 'official' route. We set off early to try this. It enables us to see seals and Eider Ducks with chicks, and then enjoy a lovely fish soup and rhubarb cake at a well known restaurant, before visiting a dinosaur rock formation and joining the official route again.
We stop a couple of times before the campsite to see an old bridge and 2 even older volcanic craters.
The next day we go to Grundarfjordur where a guided tour of the town (800 residents) has been arranged. It is led by a fisherman (1st mate on a trawler) who has just brought a new trawler from Turkey. His tour and talk is very interesting!
We travel on round the peninsula and then try to turn round to go back to see a maritime garden, but get stuck in gravel! Try as I might we cannot get out. Contact the breakdown company who tell me they do not cover Iceland (when I was specifically told they did !). Had to contact Mike and Maggie and they managed to contact a tourist information centre, who contacted breakdown service to tow us out. 1500 ISK!!!
Returned to campsite.
Monday, 19 June 2017
Moving on from Myvatn
A lovely meal last night, Arctic Chard for starter and lamb for main. But, by were the drinks expensive!
Today was bright and warm (ish). Travelled over the mountains in the sunshine stopping off at God's waterfall and then going to a farmhouse built from turf. It was like a warren inside and looked like a row of houses on the outside. It was fully furnished. After stopping for lunch at the next village we travelled to the main town in the north of Iceland, Akureyri.
We visited the cathedral which has stained glass windows from the old Coventry cathedral and then went to the Botanical Gardens, small but perfectly formed!
After a visit to the unreasonably priced, state owned liquor store for necessities, we stopped off at the equally unreasonably priced Christmas shop, before arriving at the campsite at Hafrygil (sp).
Today was bright and warm (ish). Travelled over the mountains in the sunshine stopping off at God's waterfall and then going to a farmhouse built from turf. It was like a warren inside and looked like a row of houses on the outside. It was fully furnished. After stopping for lunch at the next village we travelled to the main town in the north of Iceland, Akureyri.
We visited the cathedral which has stained glass windows from the old Coventry cathedral and then went to the Botanical Gardens, small but perfectly formed!
After a visit to the unreasonably priced, state owned liquor store for necessities, we stopped off at the equally unreasonably priced Christmas shop, before arriving at the campsite at Hafrygil (sp).
Sunday, 18 June 2017
Iceland at last
Arrived in Iceland to thick fog as we travelled over a pass, passed snow and frozen pools with mini icebergs. Did a big, expensive shop in the supermarket before heading off to a lake and a walk up to the 3rd highest waterfall. Continued north to lake Myvatn.
,
Next day we travelled further north to go whale 🐳 watching on a sailing boat, a wooden sloop. Lots of whales!
Yesterday we visited the 1st and 2nd highest waterfalls and walked through a lava field and up to a volcano crater filled with blue water. Had a lovely sandwich and some ice-cream in a restaurant. The bread is baked in hot holes in the ground.
Rode my bike 23 miles round the lake.
Today we travelled north to Odin's footprint, a large canyon.
We were going to go further north to the most northern part, one 2 kilometres from the Arctic Circle, but we ran out of time as we have a group meal tonight.
Tomorrow we move to a new site to the east.
,Next day we travelled further north to go whale 🐳 watching on a sailing boat, a wooden sloop. Lots of whales!
Yesterday we visited the 1st and 2nd highest waterfalls and walked through a lava field and up to a volcano crater filled with blue water. Had a lovely sandwich and some ice-cream in a restaurant. The bread is baked in hot holes in the ground.
Rode my bike 23 miles round the lake.
Today we travelled north to Odin's footprint, a large canyon.
We were going to go further north to the most northern part, one 2 kilometres from the Arctic Circle, but we ran out of time as we have a group meal tonight.
Tomorrow we move to a new site to the east.
Wednesday, 14 June 2017
Last day in the Faroe Islands
A bright day to begin with. We drove in towards Torshavn and went to the National Museum. After a couple of hours we catch a (free) bus into the town centre. A light lunch and a walk to the cathedral more or less covered the town!
We caught the bus (same driver) back to the museum, sat inside for a while and then made our way to the ferry. Iceland tomorrow morning.
We caught the bus (same driver) back to the museum, sat inside for a while and then made our way to the ferry. Iceland tomorrow morning.
Tuesday, 13 June 2017
Exploration of the Faroe Islands
Today we explored two of the islands. The first is Streymoy where we are based.
We went to Saksun in the north west of the island to a village called Saksun. Just a few houses, a church (closed), a museum (also closed) and a fjord that becomes a lagoon at low tide. We walk along the fjord but the tide has not gone far enough out for us to do the complete trip.
We retrace our steps and cross a bridge to the neighbouring island of Eysturoy.
We went on to Eidi where we bought a few supplies and had a picnic lunch. We then travelled over the mountains to Giogv - another little village by the sea.
I take a walk up the mountain side to see the Views. Strenuous but scenic.
We then travelled over more mountain passes before returning to the campsite.
I have a quick 4.5 mile bike ride before dinner and bed.
Tomorrow we will go to the National Museum in Torshavn before boarding the ferry for Iceland 🇮🇸.
Expensive WiFi on the ferry and none worth mentioning at our first site in Iceland where we stay for three nights.
Might be a few days before I can write more.
We went to Saksun in the north west of the island to a village called Saksun. Just a few houses, a church (closed), a museum (also closed) and a fjord that becomes a lagoon at low tide. We walk along the fjord but the tide has not gone far enough out for us to do the complete trip.
We retrace our steps and cross a bridge to the neighbouring island of Eysturoy.
We went on to Eidi where we bought a few supplies and had a picnic lunch. We then travelled over the mountains to Giogv - another little village by the sea.
Looking down on Giogv
Fish drying outside a building
I take a walk up the mountain side to see the Views. Strenuous but scenic.
We then travelled over more mountain passes before returning to the campsite.
I have a quick 4.5 mile bike ride before dinner and bed.
Tomorrow we will go to the National Museum in Torshavn before boarding the ferry for Iceland 🇮🇸.
Expensive WiFi on the ferry and none worth mentioning at our first site in Iceland where we stay for three nights.
Might be a few days before I can write more.
Monday, 12 June 2017
The Faroe Islands
After leaving the ferry we had an uneventful drive north through some beautiful scenery to Vestammen, arriving about 11.30 pm. Still lightish!
Got up reasonably early and after breakfast booked on the 10.00 am trip around the cliffs. Freezing but enjoyable. Puffins and Fulmars, elephant rock, arches and sea stacks.
Fish soup and hot chocolate on our return, followed by a quick replenishment trip to the supermarket. We do not buy the local traditional ingredient - a sheep head!
.
Travel to the south of the island to see the only church dating from the Middle Ages still being used on the Faroe Islands. Next to it is the ruins of a later church and an interesting museum.
We return to the campsite in time for a briefing meeting and then board a coach to the next village where a guide gives us a brief history of the islands and shows us the remains of a viking long house.
We visit the local Lutheran church before going to the community centre for a traditional Faroese meal, dried whale meat, salted blubber, salted fish, smoked salmon and mutton sausage, meatballs and fried fish, accompanied by potatoes, past and salads. All very interesting!
We had descriptions of traditional costumes and folklore followed by a demonstration (and participation in) a traditional chain dance.
Our Faroese entertainers.
An excellent evening.
11.15 pm as I write - still light.
Got up reasonably early and after breakfast booked on the 10.00 am trip around the cliffs. Freezing but enjoyable. Puffins and Fulmars, elephant rock, arches and sea stacks.
Fish soup and hot chocolate on our return, followed by a quick replenishment trip to the supermarket. We do not buy the local traditional ingredient - a sheep head!
.
Travel to the south of the island to see the only church dating from the Middle Ages still being used on the Faroe Islands. Next to it is the ruins of a later church and an interesting museum.
We return to the campsite in time for a briefing meeting and then board a coach to the next village where a guide gives us a brief history of the islands and shows us the remains of a viking long house.
We visit the local Lutheran church before going to the community centre for a traditional Faroese meal, dried whale meat, salted blubber, salted fish, smoked salmon and mutton sausage, meatballs and fried fish, accompanied by potatoes, past and salads. All very interesting!
We had descriptions of traditional costumes and folklore followed by a demonstration (and participation in) a traditional chain dance.
An excellent evening.
11.15 pm as I write - still light.
Sunday, 11 June 2017
Ribe, Hirtshalls and the Faroe Islands
As I write we are sailing passed the Shetland Islands but to continue from the last post...
We left Hamburg and drove north to Ribe in Denmark 🇩🇰. Weather was improved. We walked into the town and visited the cathedral, and stopping for a delicious hot chocolate made with plain chocolate before returning to the site.
In the evening we walked to a nearby 'retreat' for our first group meal. Freshly cooked and 95% organic. Beautiful!
Afterwards we walked back into Ribe and joined a historical tour of the town given by a Watchman.
Very interesting and informative, delivered in Danish and English with a dry sense of humour.
Friday was wet!
We travelled north to Hirtshalls via the coastal route which was quite interesting as we were on a wide spit of land with the sea on both sides. There were lots of thatched cottages set amongst the dunes.
Before reaching Hirtshalls we decided to travel up to the most northern point of Denmark. As we arrived the heavens threw even more water down on us. We walked up onto the dunes but not to the meeting of the Skaggerack and the Kattegat (sp?) which we could see in the distance through the rain. We were soaked.
We returned to Hirtshalls to the campsite.
Saturday was sunny and bright. We had a walk along the dunes and explored the old German defences, gun emplacements, bunkers etc.
After lunch we set off in convoy to the port to get the ferry ⛴ to the Faroe Islands. I had to get assistance from the crew to enable me to get up the ramp without grounding the bike carrier.
A pleasant cabin, a good buffet dinner, a social group drink and to bed.
This morning the sun was shining. We saw the Shetland Islands, quite close by, as we headed north.
Tonight we reach the Faroe Islands at 10.30 pm and then drive 25 miles to the campsite where we stay for three nights.
We left Hamburg and drove north to Ribe in Denmark 🇩🇰. Weather was improved. We walked into the town and visited the cathedral, and stopping for a delicious hot chocolate made with plain chocolate before returning to the site.
In the evening we walked to a nearby 'retreat' for our first group meal. Freshly cooked and 95% organic. Beautiful!
Afterwards we walked back into Ribe and joined a historical tour of the town given by a Watchman.
Friday was wet!
We travelled north to Hirtshalls via the coastal route which was quite interesting as we were on a wide spit of land with the sea on both sides. There were lots of thatched cottages set amongst the dunes.
Before reaching Hirtshalls we decided to travel up to the most northern point of Denmark. As we arrived the heavens threw even more water down on us. We walked up onto the dunes but not to the meeting of the Skaggerack and the Kattegat (sp?) which we could see in the distance through the rain. We were soaked.
We returned to Hirtshalls to the campsite.
Saturday was sunny and bright. We had a walk along the dunes and explored the old German defences, gun emplacements, bunkers etc.
After lunch we set off in convoy to the port to get the ferry ⛴ to the Faroe Islands. I had to get assistance from the crew to enable me to get up the ramp without grounding the bike carrier.
Convoy waiting to board
A pleasant cabin, a good buffet dinner, a social group drink and to bed.
This morning the sun was shining. We saw the Shetland Islands, quite close by, as we headed north.
Passing the Shetland Islands
Tonight we reach the Faroe Islands at 10.30 pm and then drive 25 miles to the campsite where we stay for three nights.
Wednesday, 7 June 2017
A wet day travelling.
Travelled to Hamburg today. Motorway all the way and rain! The traffic in and around Hamburg was horrendous - stop start crawling for miles.
Eventually the satnav had had enough and took us through a series of back roads through the city.
When we eventually arrived at the Knaus campsite I met an English couple in a caravan who are travelling to Iceland! Robin and Margery from Norfolk.
Eventually the satnav had had enough and took us through a series of back roads through the city.
When we eventually arrived at the Knaus campsite I met an English couple in a caravan who are travelling to Iceland! Robin and Margery from Norfolk.
Tuesday, 6 June 2017
Tuesday 6 June
☔ rain and wind for today. Will probably have a walk to the village and see if we can buy some groceries, and then perhaps a bike ride in the woods, weather permitting.
Walk into Else and buy groceries. Retuning to the campsite Lynda is almost hit by a truck as she steps out on the road. The truck driver returns a few minutes later to ensure she is OK.
After lunch we go on a bike ride. However lynda's battery is flat. I swap it for mine but it means I am stuck in the lowest gear. After 9 miles I return to the campsite but have no idea where lynda is. She eventually returns having missed the turn to the campsite.
I swap batteries and do another 14 miles.
Showery evening but steak and red wine take the edge off!
Walk into Else and buy groceries. Retuning to the campsite Lynda is almost hit by a truck as she steps out on the road. The truck driver returns a few minutes later to ensure she is OK.
After lunch we go on a bike ride. However lynda's battery is flat. I swap it for mine but it means I am stuck in the lowest gear. After 9 miles I return to the campsite but have no idea where lynda is. She eventually returns having missed the turn to the campsite.
I swap batteries and do another 14 miles.
Showery evening but steak and red wine take the edge off!
Monday, 5 June 2017
Harwich
Travelled down to Harwich yesterday. No real traffic issues. Set up at Brookcroft and had a short explore of the dog walk and the local churchyard. Met a proud local who was inspecting a downed tree.
After dinner we walked to the village to support the community run pub.
On returning to the van we discovered two things. First, we have no hot water! Second, Lynda has no nighties!
Ah well!
Up early this morning, a quick breakfast (still no hot water). Arrive at the port in good time. Tax the van (from July).
Quickly board the ferry and settle in.
Ferry ⛴ is a calm affair. Lunch on board (free in Linda's case). At the ferry terminal we are the last vehicle to disembark.
The satnav takes us to the campsite which turns out to be very quiet and good quality.
And lo and behold - we have the hot water!
Cooler and possibly wet tomorrow.
After dinner we walked to the village to support the community run pub.
On returning to the van we discovered two things. First, we have no hot water! Second, Lynda has no nighties!
Ah well!
Up early this morning, a quick breakfast (still no hot water). Arrive at the port in good time. Tax the van (from July).
Quickly board the ferry and settle in.
Ferry ⛴ is a calm affair. Lunch on board (free in Linda's case). At the ferry terminal we are the last vehicle to disembark.
The satnav takes us to the campsite which turns out to be very quiet and good quality.
And lo and behold - we have the hot water!
Cooler and possibly wet tomorrow.
Saturday, 3 June 2017
Faroes and Iceland
Tomorrow we set off on our 2017 adventure to the Faroes and Iceland.
Our first leg is to Harwich where we stay overnight on a CL before joining the ferry to the Hook of Holland.
I will try to keep this blog up to date - Wifi permitting!
Our first leg is to Harwich where we stay overnight on a CL before joining the ferry to the Hook of Holland.
I will try to keep this blog up to date - Wifi permitting!
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